I’m forever amazed at how tricky some of these seemingly simple joints are. That amazement tends to come after I’ve screwed up a piece and didn’t see it coming. There’s a big “HUH…” squinty eyed look, like the part has just told you something you don’t quite believe. What the hell, I measured you, I cut you accurately, what do you mean “I don’t fit??” That’s just crazy talk.
Everyone says that the tough thing about building a boat is the lack of right angles. Personally, I think that’s one of the most interesting things about it. In some cases, you can work out and mark the cuts you’re going to make ahead of time, and in other cases, you have to look at the part carefully and make little marks on it to guide you in what is essentially free-handing when you plane or chisel. Today was a little of both. Let’s start with the Carlins.


Ok, you totally saw that coming.
The Carlins are the longitudinal supports that attach to the ends of the short deck beams around the cockpit. They help support the little deck there. Just looking at them, you’d think, what a simple thing. You cut the piece to length, maybe bevel it a bit, and screw it to the deck beams. How easy is that?? Here’s the starboard carlin clamped above the short deck beams.

A few things are worth noting here.
- The carlin curves outwards to follow the curve of the boat.
- The carlin also curves upwards slightly as it goes fore and aft to follow the sweep of the sheer.
- The carlin also remains roughly plumb as it curves (the inner face stays straight up and down)
Since the carlin curves outboard, you can’t just sit the rough carlin on the boat and measure how long it is. The curve adds some length. Cut it by laying it out straight and you’ll be about 1/2″ too short. Also since it curves outward, the surface where it meets the long deck beams forward and aft are not 90 degree cuts. They’re beveled (you can see this by curving your fingers slightly and holding your fingertips against a flat surface… they don’t meet at 90 degrees), and you have to figure out what that side-to-side bevel is.
Since the carlin curves upwards as well, there’s also a top-to-bottom bevel that has to be taken into account.
Since the carlin ends up plumb, you have to keep it plumb when you pre-bend it to work out your bevels. The carlin is resting on curved deck beams both fore and aft as you’re doing this (you can sort of see that in the above photo) and it doesn’t Want to stay plumb. It wants to sit on the curve of the deck beam. Also, bending the carlin in 2 directions makes it want to twist out of plumb.
Now we’re having some fun, eh? Read the rest of this entry »